Travel Diary | Croatia
Summer on the Adriatic
If visiting Croatia isn’t on your list yet, I’m here to let you know – it’s time to add it! Earlier this summer, my husband and I visited Croatia for the first time and were blown away by the country’s stunning coastline, historical landmarks, friendly and hospitable people, and of course, the food!
In recent years, I’ve been hearing more and more chatter about travels to Croatia, and confirmed with the locals that they’ve been seeing an increase in tourism as well. It still seems like the country flies a bit under the radar when it comes to European travel – and now that we’ve gotten a taste of the Balkan region, we’re looking to uncover some hidden gems in the area.
ITINERARY
While Croatia is a small country, there are so many noteworthy towns, ports, and natural wonders to explore. It was difficult to plan our itinerary and knowing what to prioritize, but ultimately we decided to focus our trip on the southern-most coastal region. The only one-stop flights from Cleveland to Croatia were through Dubrovnik, which was a must-see for us anyway, so we based ourselves in Dubrovnik and spent the middle part of our trip on the island of Hvar. We both agreed that the timing and locations we chose allowed us to really take in each location, and actually relax a bit – after all, we wanted it to be a vacation, not just a trip.
After lots of research, we decided to spend 3 nights in Dubrovnik, ferry to Hvar and spend 4 nights there, then end with 2 nights back in Dubrovnik before flying home.
Getting around IN CROATIA
One notable difference between Croatia and other countries we’ve visited, is that they don’t have a robust train system – so getting from city to city requires a bus trip, or many choose to rent a car. Since we weren’t hopping around much, we decided not to rent a car, and either walked or used Uber to get around town.
Uber is VERY prevalent in Dubrovnik – moreso than any city I’ve ever been to, in the US or internationally. The majority of the time we called for an Uber, not only were there several in the immediate area, but they’d practically be pulling up the second we hit “submit.” The rates were also very inexpensive, so this was an affordable and super convenient way to get around.
Ferries are another common way to get around – there are several high speed catamarans that transport people to the islands, making it easy to hop around the Dalmatian islands.
Another benefit that made travel smooth sailing, is there is little to no language barrier here. Everyone we met spoke English – the locals told us many people grow up speaking both English and Croatian – and signage and menus were all in English. I had read about this prior to our trip, but was still surprised by how prevalent it was to speak English there.
DUBROVNIK
WHERE WE STAYED | DUBROVNIK
We stayed at Hotel Bellevue and agreed that this hotel and experience was one of the best we’ve ever had. Situated close to Old Town but tucked far enough away from any crowds, the hotel offers stunning views of the Adriatic from their restaurant and sea-view rooms, as well as access to Bellevue Beach. Waking up and having coffee on our balcony, looking out over the quiet, peaceful sea was an unreal way to start our days here. And as mentioned earlier, the prices here are easier to digest – so this upgrade was worth it!
While Bellevue Beach is public, its small, tucked-away nature kept it from being overly crowded – plus, the hotel has its own section of beach loungers available for free to hotel guests. There’s also a beach-front restaurant, bathrooms, and showers to complete the experience.
I highly recommend carving out enough time to enjoy the beaches in Dubrovnik – there’s so much to see in Old Town and the neighborhood, but the waters here are not to be missed. We spent a few afternoons here lounging and swimming and reading – absolute dream.
TO DO & EAT
WALK THE CITY WALLS
Old Town in Dubrovnik is a former fortress; with the town center surrounded by walls, shielding it from the sea and attacks from enemies. Game of Thrones fans will recognize several spots within Old Town as filming locations – however, it’s a marvel whether you’re a fan of the show or not! The outer walls of the city all feature a walkable path, which you can explore for 30 euros (price as of 2023) each. The walk can take as long as you want – there are a few stops along the way if you want to take a seat and have a drink or lunch. Our walk took about an hour and a half, with a quick stop for a drink. The views of Old Town and the surrounding sea are unbeatable – however, if you’re afraid of heights (hi, it’s me) this may be a bit scary for you in parts. The walls seem to creep higher and higher as you go. I just stayed away from the edge as much as I could, haha!
DINNER AT PRORA
The seaside tables at Prora have been on my vision board all year, so it was amazing to get to experience this restaurant in real life. Prora is the beach restaurant of Hotel Excelsior, which you enter through to get to your table. The views of Old Town are unreal, and the whole experience was luxe but unpretentious. The food was amazing and the setting feels like a fairytale, while you dine and look out at your kingdom. Such a cool experience!
DRINKS AT BUZA BAR
This cliffside bar is a must! Situated on the edge of the city walls, you enter this bar through a narrow passageway in the city walls, and emerge on the other side, overlooking the sea. The music and atmosphere is lively and fun, with this being a popular cliff jumping spot. Bring your suit to jump in, if you’re feeling bold. The vibe here is casual – wine is served in plastic cups and note that they’re very strictly cash only. Awesome place to catch a sunset!
MORE FOOD + DRINK in dubrovnik:
Beach Bar Dodo (fun vibe for a cocktail!)
Gradska Kavana Arsenal
Nautika (Michelin rated)
Cave Bar (an actual cave bar!)
HVAR
WHERE WE STAYED | hvar
We definitely wanted to embrace the island vibes on Hvar, so we booked our stay at the recently remodeled Hotel Moeesey Blue Green Oasis. This property is stunning – the hotel itself is airy and modern, juxtaposed with the lush, natural greenery of the landscape, with a multi-level infinity pool and bar situated along the sea. Everything about the hotel embraces the natural beauty of Hvar, and it exudes island luxury. We loved it here!
TO DO & EAT: HVAR
STROLL THE HARBOR PROMENADE
Hvar Town is nestled along the main harbor of the island, with shops and restaurants lining the sea. As you work your way inland from the harbor, Hvar’s elevation increases, and you’ll wander up narrow steps to discover tons of cozy bars, restaurants, and shops tucked in every alley. Hvar is known for its nightlife, so you’ll find some fun bars for a nightcap – just follow the music and the crowds! The Hvar Fortica (fortress) at the top of the island is lit up at night, adding a medieval feel to the island vibes. Definitely head into town at night to experience it – and get some gelato from aROMA while you’re there.
VISIT A BEACH CLUB
Speaking of nightlife, Hula Hula is a fun beach club to stop by for a drink – or you can rent a lounger and spend the day there. We grabbed a few cocktails and enjoyed the sunset and people watching here, before walking into town for dinner. This club is a short walk from Hotel Moeesey, and also near Hvar Beach Club – which is another club you can rent seaside lounge chairs at for the day. Each club has their own policies for renting loungers, but we were able to walk right into Hula Hula and get drinks.
EXPLORE BY BOAT
Our boat day was definitely one of the highlights of our trip! We rented a boat with a captain, who took us around to some swimming spots near Hvar, then we headed to Zlatan Otok Winery for a tasting. The winery is easily accessed from the water, with plenty of docks for boats to pull up. We got a little tour of the restaurant, then went down into the underwater cellar – such a unique experience! We enjoyed our tasting outside along the docks and bought a few bottles to take home. They made it back safely, thank goodness! Saving those for a special occasion for sure.
After our tasting, we rode over to the Pakleni Islands for lunch in Palmiziana. We stopped for a bite to eat at Bacchus – the food and views were awesome, and I think having a local captain allowed us to get the hookup with a great table – so that was a plus ;) This area is great for spending the day – boats can pull in and raft off each other, and spend the day in the sun. On our ride back to Hvar port, our captain took us to see the Red Rocks along the outer cliffs of the island – these natural rocks and caves were worth the stop. Highly recommend booking a boat or renting your own to get around, you can see so much more via the water!
MORE FOOD + DRINK in hvar:
Black Pepper
Fig
Kiva Bar (fun nighttime alley vibes)
Lacman Family Winery
It was bittersweet to leave Hvar, but we were glad we’d still get a few days to continue exploring Dubrovnik. I’m glad we spent a little more time there, as there was still plenty to see, and more beaching to be done! We spent a relaxing few days back in town and ended the trip with dinner at Nautika, overlooking the fortress in Old Town. The perfect way to cap off out trip!
We absolutely loved Croatia and found it to be full of things to do, the NICEST people, so relaxing, and easy to get around. We’re looking forward to going back someday, and seeing more of the northern part of the country and the national parks! What do you think – is Croatia on your bucket list?
